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Place base PCB face down, with the pads to solder on the left side. The drop-down menu located on the right side is the Protocol tab. Mount the rotary encoders, check the right ones are non-detented. If you want to be professional about it, put all the screws in the spacers first, without screwing them in fully, then tighten them starting with the middle ones and moving out to the edges. Make sure you do not put cable in the extra "GND" pads Put all eight 8-wire cables in, plus the single 2-wire cable. The aim here is to make the LEDs poke out the same distance above the panel as the switch shafts. If the LED leads are really long, you can trim all the LED leads to 5mm above PCB, to make soldering easier. Here is a guide to soldering the wires to the LCD. I've suggested not soldering R40-R55 until now.

If you are crazy and want to do illuminated knobs, NOW is the time to solder LEDs to the rotary encoders. Turn it panel side up, check all the LEDs are at the right height. This means you should first cut lengths of 50mm and then strip 5mm of insulation of either end, and then bend the ends of the wires 90 degrees about 2mm from the insulation, towards the ribbed side. Then use the holes of the PCB to bend the ends of the wire - insert cable so 2mm of wire (about the thickness of the PCB) is visible between the top of the PCB and the start of the insulation, then bend 90 degrees. The best way to strip the insulation from the wires is to lightly score with a knife on the flat side, i.e. cut half-way through the insulation, not cutting to the wire, then do small cuts between each wire (from the score line to the end), then pull off each little bit of insulation with pliers, being careful not to grip the wire too much and pull the wire out. I use the front panel that comes with the PT-10 case, this is very flat, and you can rotate it to see the gap around the edge, i.e. how high the switch shafts are holding the frontpanel above the surface.

Besides good welding capability, it comes with a high-grade adapter plug, which is used to switch the voltage from 220V to 110 and vice versa. Conveniently, the inverter-based welder comes with improved settings, which are easy to use and delivers both precision and performance. After initial internet setup, you can personalize the default network name SSID & network key passphrase settings, network key passphrase Should be a minimum of 8 characters, security type recommended is WPA / wpa2 personal. This is an indicator that your Amped wireless range extender was restored to factory default settings. How do you find the best location for your wireless range extender amped? STEP 2 : Connect all antennas to your amped wireless router ,& connect a Ethernet cable from modem to your amped wireless router WAN slot. Make a very small solder joint on the first and last wire of each cable. This joint doesn't have to be perfect, just enough to hold it in place, you can do a proper joint later. If any are not correct, you can heat up the joint and position the LED with pliers holding the lead, or a finger adjusting the unsoldered lead. Turn it PCB side up, trim the leads to 1mm above PCB, and solder the second lead of each LED, and also do a proper solder joint on the first lead (if it wasn't done properly the first time).

Ideally you should not make a raised solder joint on this side, only get solder to be sucked into the hole, to hold the cables in place so you can do proper solder joints on the other side. Make sure GND and 5V are not connected (the single 2-wire cable). I use 100mil spacing ribbon cable. Make sure there are NO SHORTS between any two adjacent pins of the ribbon cable joints. These external components make the unit very suitable for daily use and other welding activities. This will make the panel sit flush with the PT-10 case top. The ideal length to use when connecting the PCBs and using a PT-10 case is around 42mm-43mm between the holes/pads on each PCB. If you are using some ultrabright or superbright LEDs, blue or white LEDs, etc. you may want to try 2K, 3K or higher resistors. For SmashTV LEDs, 1K will probably be best.

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